Conde Nast Traveler

REVIEW: Herb & Sea

blending east coast vibes and california breeziness.

“Give us an overview. Partner-owners Chris Puffer and Top Chef's Brian Malarkey are known for their grand restaurants that have a lot going on yet feel streamlined. Herb & Sea is no exception. Companion to beloved Herb & Wood in Little Italy, Herb & Sea blends East Coast vibes and California breeziness, serving cool menu items like oysters with bone marrow. Inside the 1920s Art Deco building, rebuilt from the ground up, are splashes of turquoise paired with neutrals, an impressive open kitchen, and an ocean aesthetic without kitsch—all thanks to the great taste of the design team at Bells + Whistles (Jeune et Jolie, Campfire). The name pays homage not just to the cuisine but to its location steps from the beach in surf-happy Encinitas.

What’s the crowd like? Young, old, families, couple, professionals—the point is it's often crowded. The atmosphere is almost always vibrantly thumping, so don't expect a quiet meal.

What should we be drinking? Hello, cocktails! The drink menu is best described as seasonal and light, with citrus and floral notes emphasized. And since Encinitas loves their agave, the team has incorporated plenty of tequila and mezcal to the menu. Executive Chef-partner Sara Harris and Bar Lead Connor Duncan work in tandem to order the same ingredients for food and drink, like the Beet & Verbena, made with lemon verbena gin, beet nectar, simple syrup, lemon, and black pepper. If you're not a cocktail person, there's also wine, craft beer, and mocktails with fun ingredients like sage-infused grenadine.

Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss. Simple, clean, bright seafood—that's the mantra here. The menu is divided into oysters, clams, salads, small and large plates, pasta, and pizza in case fruits de mer isn't your thing. You can't leave without ordering the roasted oysters with bone marrow, a riff on Oysters Rockefeller that subs in lighter ingredients like kale and lemon so the decadent marrow can shine. We also love the hamachi crudo with radish sprouts, citrus, and avocado; plancha-fired whole branzino; and roasted carrots with Aleppo yogurt and carrot top pesto—a borrow from their sister restaurant, Herb & Wood. Save room for dessert; Executive Pastry Chef Adrian Mendoza makes some of the best in town (i.e. butterscotch budino with lavender cream).

And how did you find the front-of-house folks? Informed, attentive, friendly service.

Do we need an occasion to come? You could just as well propose marriage here as you could get together with friends for oysters and wine on a Wednesday.”

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